Like so many gap year hopefuls, I looked to Australia as my escape. Now, I would be very happy to sit here and wax poetic about my time in Adelaide – in case my writing, recipe, and all-round enthusiasm hasn’t given it away – I LOVED IT THERE. However, that doesn’t seem like it would be very helpful to anybody. So, I’ve smushed my enthusiasm into a list of things to do instead: 10 diamonds in a City of Hidden Gems
1. Central Market and the Courts
Much to the delight of Adelaide’s legal profession, the cluster of Court buildings sits next to the Central Market and Chinatown – the food-hub of South Australia. Both Market and Courts are fairly spectacular, especially the domed District Court. Even if it is regularly ridiculed as the ‘Nipple of Justice’.
The indoor Market is always bustling, and an obvious example of Adelaide’s cultural mishmash. Filled with traders selling everything from Vietnamese bành mí to Kransky hot dogs, it’s one of the first spots I visited. For tourists, I have to recommend Simply Sarj. Sarj and her husband Stephen not only gave me amazing fusion food, but also a great introduction to town. Listening to people with such enthusiasm for travel and their home (over numerous cups of tea) made being a single traveller feel that bit easier. Sarj has a recipe blog and a book on cross-cultural connections, which you can see here.
2. The not-so-secret Gardens
On a map, Central Adelaide looks a little like a doughnut. This is because of the green ring of parkland around the Central Business District (“CBD”). Now, the doughnut might not be as dramatic as the Hills’ wildlife, but a good City park makes all the difference to 9-5ers.
Small gardens with streams, ducks, and the odd Bin Chicken are dotted about, and make for an easy escape from CBD bustle. The most well-known of these is the Botanical Garden. However, my absolute favourite was the Himeji Japanese Garden. A small nook inside a larger space, this leafy hideaway was a little tricky to find. I promise it is worth the search: perfect for quietly reading a book for a few hours.
3. Hahndorf
When I arrived in Australia, I did not expect to find myself holding a glass beer stein. Nor did I expect to see stone and Fachwerkhaüser (half-timbered houses) tucked away in the Adelaide Hills. I’m very pleased I did, however. Hahndorf, a German settlement from 1838, is objectively gorgeous. The main avenue is shaded by hundreds of trees, most beautiful in the Autumn when the leaves turn vibrant red. Although it’s a little way out from the centre of town, Hahndorf is worth hiring a car for. Whether activities like strawberry picking and mini-golfing are for you, or you’d rather amble through artisan shops (including a cheese cellar) and stop in for brunch, there is nowhere quainter to do so than Hahndorf.
4. The Beaches
The beaches West and South of the City are the stuff of dreams – they all meet the yellow-sand-turquoise-water test, and cater to different types of tourism: Maslin for peace and nature-lovers, Noarlunga for surfers, and even Aldinga, for those who feel like a beach is best enjoyed with their car at the waterfront. Still, as a former resident of Henley Beach, I am biased towards the home turf. The micro-city’s cafes, bars, and truly top-notch ice cream parlours (I still think about Bottega on a weekly basis) group together in the beach-facing main square. Somehow, it manages a miniature version of the CBD’s buzz, all without feeling “touristy” or unsafe.
The beach itself is beautiful, with plenty of space. A paved track stretches parallel, and, honestly, the treadmill will never feel quite the same after running between Henley and Grange at sunset.
5. Riverside Walk
Although Henley Beach is easily accessible by bus or car, I would recommend taking the River Torrens Linear Park Trail at least once. The trail runs 30km from the Adelaide Hills, through the top of the CBD, to the river mouth at the south end of Henley beach. Although many cycle, I decided to walk, armed with 3 hours of downloaded podcasts. Following the river’s meandering path gave some lush views of the local environment, and I found myself wanting more time. Outside of the industrial area, you can find the famous red gum trees, and in my case, a few horses enjoying a bath. The walk is a great way to spend an afternoon, especially if you finish with one of those Henley Beach ice creams!
6. Adelaide Fringe – the Garden of Unearthly Delights
If you can, try visiting Adelaide between February and March: the peak festival season. Both WOMADelaide and Adelaide Festival are popular with music and arts lovers. However, without doubt the festival that all-out screams for attention, is Adelaide Fringe. Bizarre and brilliant, it connects events across the City, with its hub inside the ‘Garden of Unearthly Delights’. The formerly peaceful garden becomes a circus-like centre of stalls and pop-up performances, like the fabulous Yummy Unleashed or Maho Magic Bar. I’m still not settled on whether mass Karaoke was a good thing, but it was certainly an experience. And one I wouldn’t have had without Adelaide Fringe.
7. The State Library of South Australia
For those on a working holiday, students, or anyone who loves a literary hideaway – and there are many of us (click here for some beautiful world libraries my dear bookworms) – the State library is a must. Aside from its wealth of information on South Australia, and its glass-walled entrance, the treasure of the library is its Mortlock Chamber. The three-floored Wing, with its soft lighting, cast iron, and dark wooden furnishing looks more in fitting with Hogwarts than an otherwise modern library. With free wifi, power outlets, and relatively low foot traffic, the second floor is the perfect place to study or sit back with a book. The volunteers I met there were keen to talk about the place, and it’s easy to see why.
P.S. if looking to buy a book, I recommend Imprints Booksellers – a cosy, independent bookshop tucked away on Hindley Street.
8. McLaren Vale
South Australia is renowned for its wine, and even the quality of the local supermarket stuff was far beyond what I’m used to. Its most famous region is the Barossa Valley, which boasts some of the biggest and best in the business, like Jacob’s Creek, Wolf Blass, and Langmeil. However, my trip there, which was to be a father-daughter bonding boozeroo of epic proportions, was cancelled on account of COVID-19.
All was not lost, however. I did make it to the slightly closer, Sunday-drive favourite, McLaren Vale. And it was lovely. The wineries there are smaller than their Barossa cousins, and spread out over the vineyard-covered hilly expanse. They are also pretty quirky: the D’Arenberg Cube – which looks like it was designed by Rubik – has a Salvador Dali exhibition, the Alpha Box & Dice has a penchant for alphabetising its wine, and Down the Rabbit Hole has a blue double-decker bus on its grounds. It makes far more sense after a few glasses, to be honest.
9. Mount Lofty
As a person with little sense of direction, I have become well used to getting a bit lost. And to my mind, there are fewer places better to do so than Mount Lofty Botanic Garden. I could spout about the different flora both native and foreign to South Australia on display there, but really the Garden is best taken in as a whole, with its looping paths, water, and bright colours.
The lawn is perfect for a picnic, and the walking trails ideal for hikers. Armed with a camera, water, and some well-worn trainers, you cannot go far wrong.
10. Adelaide City Centre
I know, this is cheating slightly. Still, as the area I most wandered around slightly lost, the City Centre deserves a mention. Adelaide may not be grand in the same fashion as older heavy hitters like London or Budapest, but it is a City of hidden gems. Strolling around may reveal a creative mural, unusual brunch spot (like Peter Rabbit), or an ornate filigree-style terrace house.
Outside the Botanic Gardens is a stone trough, commemorating horses fallen in war; further west is Adelaide Arcade, with its old-world style and boutique shops; further still are the small and swish venues on Leigh and Peel street.
On its surface, Adelaide may appear as a typical hipster City, with juice-cleansing beachgoers hopped up on expensive coffee. However, its charm lies in its variety: there is something for everyone, whether a food tourist, adventurer, or somewhere in between the two. This list only scratches the surface. And not to sound too mushy, but both the place and the people continue to hold a special place in my heart. I look forward to going back!